A trip to Texas and a glimpse at the fading American dream
Last week I was in Texas, initially I had mixed reactions to the lone star state. I have a keen interest in American history with a particular passion for the south. I studied American history in university and that interest has deepened over the years. I think it might be more of a fascination. Prior to my trip I had heard nothing but good things about Texas. I've traveled a fair bit throughout the US and have a very good understanding of our neighbor to the south. Texas has provided me even more insights into this complicated country.
N and I began our trip in Austin where we spent 3 days. We went to the LBJ Presidential library (fantastic), the Texas State Legislature and caught some live music. We drove to San Antonio and on the way stopped to hike in Guadalupe river state park. We hit the Alamo and the river walk in San Antonio. Then we ended up in Houston, a sprawling city connected by the most intricate freeway system I've ever seen. People drive madly in that city. We witnessed drag racing at 7 PM and observed a motorcycle burst into flames. We stayed at the fabulous hotel, Zsa Zsa's in the museum district. I was able to catch up on some reading and indulge in some very fine red wine. We had so much fun and completely decompressed. We quickly adjusted to the extraordinary heat. It's like a brick wall when you walk out of any air conditioned building. Think desert heat with humidity.
Texas felt like a microcosm of American society. That's what has ultimately struck me since I've come home. I was shocked at the chronic obesity, patches of poverty and the clear levels of income inequality as we made our way across the state. However, I was also blown away by the hospitality we enjoyed. The knowledge and creativity displayed at the restaurants we attended was inspiring and I'm not a foodie. From Tex Mex to cured steak to flavorful salads, we were active participants in our dining experience. Waiters carefully explained which fresh ingredients were used to prepare our meals, suggest the right wine to have and work through the menu to ensure you got the best options. There was incredible decadence contrasted by struggling, working class people.
Let me give you an example. On our drive from San Antonio to Houston, roughly a 3.5 hour journey, we thought it would be fun to stop at a local BBQ roadhouse. The roadhouse was right on the edge of a small, working class town. The population was roughly 2,200 people. We wanted to get a glimpse of how every day Texans live. The restaurant had great curb appeal and we thought we'd found a little gem. It felt homey and welcoming. There were lots of cars in the parking lot which is always a good sign. It was a large, sprawling building with large rooms going to the back of the property. We were seated in the room right next to the salad bar. Salad bars are very big in Texas.
It was mid-afternoon on a Wednesday. I went to the washroom and my appetite was gone by the time I got back to our table. Admittedly my expression of distaste did not help the situation and N was already trying to figure out how to make this dining experience move quickly. He knew I was struggling. The staff were unkempt and clearly overworked. The salad bar was filled with fried food, fatty gravies and over cooked vegetables. Directly in front of me sat a large man with a plate filled with fried chicken and fixings. He methodically worked his way through his food and immediately went back for seconds at the salad bar. Seated behind me was a rough looking, middle aged fellow chowing down on a plate of meat. Families were dining on huge quantities of food and everyone seemed overweight. The place oozed grease and grime. The rooms were dilapidated and in need of updating. I ordered a burger and barely got through half the sandwich. The bread on N's BLT was smothered with butter and the checkered wax paper holding the sandwich was soaked through with grease. We lasted about 30 minutes. It was truly a glimpse of a segment of society where opportunity may be limited.
Shortly before this dining experience, N and I stayed at the Fairmont in Austin which boasts one of the hippest roof top bars in the city. We sauntered up on our first day to the pool and it was like a single's bar for middle aged wealthy Texans. The place was hopping! It was mid afternoon on a Friday. Bikini clad beauties were sunning while leering suitors chatted them up over mixed drinks and champagne. It was like two different worlds within 300 miles of each other.
I recently read an article in the Atlantic magazine about income inequality; The Economist who would fix the American Dream. As I was reading the article I had a flashback to my experience in Texas. The contrast between the haves and the have nots is nothing new. However, I was struck by it with such fierce intensity on this trip. I was shocked by my own reactions because clearly I felt more at home at the Fairmont rooftop bar than I ever would at the roadhouse restaurant. That may be perceived as elitist but it's merely a reflection of my upbringing and where I feel comfortable. And quite frankly I fall somewhere in the middle of those two extremes. I observed such distinctly different worlds where clearly opportunities for people are very different. It was an incredibly powerful experience and solidified my perspective on how income inequality is fragmenting the United States.
Last week I was in Texas, initially I had mixed reactions to the lone star state. I have a keen interest in American history with a particular passion for the south. I studied American history in university and that interest has deepened over the years. I think it might be more of a fascination. Prior to my trip I had heard nothing but good things about Texas. I've traveled a fair bit throughout the US and have a very good understanding of our neighbor to the south. Texas has provided me even more insights into this complicated country.
N and I began our trip in Austin where we spent 3 days. We went to the LBJ Presidential library (fantastic), the Texas State Legislature and caught some live music. We drove to San Antonio and on the way stopped to hike in Guadalupe river state park. We hit the Alamo and the river walk in San Antonio. Then we ended up in Houston, a sprawling city connected by the most intricate freeway system I've ever seen. People drive madly in that city. We witnessed drag racing at 7 PM and observed a motorcycle burst into flames. We stayed at the fabulous hotel, Zsa Zsa's in the museum district. I was able to catch up on some reading and indulge in some very fine red wine. We had so much fun and completely decompressed. We quickly adjusted to the extraordinary heat. It's like a brick wall when you walk out of any air conditioned building. Think desert heat with humidity.
Texas felt like a microcosm of American society. That's what has ultimately struck me since I've come home. I was shocked at the chronic obesity, patches of poverty and the clear levels of income inequality as we made our way across the state. However, I was also blown away by the hospitality we enjoyed. The knowledge and creativity displayed at the restaurants we attended was inspiring and I'm not a foodie. From Tex Mex to cured steak to flavorful salads, we were active participants in our dining experience. Waiters carefully explained which fresh ingredients were used to prepare our meals, suggest the right wine to have and work through the menu to ensure you got the best options. There was incredible decadence contrasted by struggling, working class people.
Let me give you an example. On our drive from San Antonio to Houston, roughly a 3.5 hour journey, we thought it would be fun to stop at a local BBQ roadhouse. The roadhouse was right on the edge of a small, working class town. The population was roughly 2,200 people. We wanted to get a glimpse of how every day Texans live. The restaurant had great curb appeal and we thought we'd found a little gem. It felt homey and welcoming. There were lots of cars in the parking lot which is always a good sign. It was a large, sprawling building with large rooms going to the back of the property. We were seated in the room right next to the salad bar. Salad bars are very big in Texas.
It was mid-afternoon on a Wednesday. I went to the washroom and my appetite was gone by the time I got back to our table. Admittedly my expression of distaste did not help the situation and N was already trying to figure out how to make this dining experience move quickly. He knew I was struggling. The staff were unkempt and clearly overworked. The salad bar was filled with fried food, fatty gravies and over cooked vegetables. Directly in front of me sat a large man with a plate filled with fried chicken and fixings. He methodically worked his way through his food and immediately went back for seconds at the salad bar. Seated behind me was a rough looking, middle aged fellow chowing down on a plate of meat. Families were dining on huge quantities of food and everyone seemed overweight. The place oozed grease and grime. The rooms were dilapidated and in need of updating. I ordered a burger and barely got through half the sandwich. The bread on N's BLT was smothered with butter and the checkered wax paper holding the sandwich was soaked through with grease. We lasted about 30 minutes. It was truly a glimpse of a segment of society where opportunity may be limited.
Shortly before this dining experience, N and I stayed at the Fairmont in Austin which boasts one of the hippest roof top bars in the city. We sauntered up on our first day to the pool and it was like a single's bar for middle aged wealthy Texans. The place was hopping! It was mid afternoon on a Friday. Bikini clad beauties were sunning while leering suitors chatted them up over mixed drinks and champagne. It was like two different worlds within 300 miles of each other.
I recently read an article in the Atlantic magazine about income inequality; The Economist who would fix the American Dream. As I was reading the article I had a flashback to my experience in Texas. The contrast between the haves and the have nots is nothing new. However, I was struck by it with such fierce intensity on this trip. I was shocked by my own reactions because clearly I felt more at home at the Fairmont rooftop bar than I ever would at the roadhouse restaurant. That may be perceived as elitist but it's merely a reflection of my upbringing and where I feel comfortable. And quite frankly I fall somewhere in the middle of those two extremes. I observed such distinctly different worlds where clearly opportunities for people are very different. It was an incredibly powerful experience and solidified my perspective on how income inequality is fragmenting the United States.
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